How to Measure Batten Gauge for Roof Tiles

Batten gauge is the distance between each course of roof battens.
If this is measured incorrectly, tiles won’t line up, cuts will be wrong, and the ridge can finish too high or too low. Correct batten gauge is essential for straight tile courses and a professional finish.

What You’ll Learn

What batten gauge means
How to measure batten gauge correctly
Typical gauges for common roof tiles
Mistakes new roofers make

What Is Batten Gauge?

Batten gauge is the distance from the top edge of one batten to the top edge of the next.

It’s based on:

The tile manufacturer’s spec
The length of the tile
The headlap you must maintain

For example:
A 420mm tile with a 75mm headlap gives a gauge of around 345mm.

Quick Answer: What is Batten Gauge?

Batten gauge is measured from the top of one batten to the top of the next and is based on tile size, head lap, and manufacturer specifications.

A 420mm tile with a 75mm head lap gives a gauge of 345mm.

Always confirm this by dry-laying tiles before fixing battens permanently.

Tools You Need

Tape measure
Chalk line
Pencil/marker
Tile sample (optional but helpful)

How to Measure Batten Gauge (Step-by-Step)

1. Check the manufacturer’s gauge range

Concrete interlocking tiles usually give a gauge range (e.g., 320–345mm).
Natural slate depends on tile size and exposure zone.

Always check the packaging or specification

2. Measure the eaves course

The first batten’s position determines everything else.

Place a tile at the bottom
Ensure proper overhang into the gutter (50–65mm)
Mark where the first batten should sit

A good little trick is to get batten cut and put it against the fascia, put your tile in line with batten. mark the line and come down 25mm down, this way you know you have the correct amount of hanger into the gutter. How to Lay Roof Battens Correctly (Spacing, Rules & Best Practices)

3. Set Your Chalk Line

Once the first batten is fixed:

Measure up your chosen gauge
Mark at least three rafters
Snap a chalk line
Fix the next batten perfectly on the line

Repeat this up to the ridge.

Quick Batten Gauge Reference Chart

Tile Type	Typical Gauge	Notes
Concrete Interlocking	320–345mm	Depends on headlap requirement
Fibre Cement Slate 600×300	250–260mm	High exposure areas use smaller gauge
Natural Slate 500×250	220–230mm	Also depends on lap requirement
Double Roman	300–315mm	Manufacturer specific

Common Mistakes (Beginners Do These Often)

Measuring from the bottom of the batten instead of the top
Forgetting to check exposure zone (UK rules matter)
Changing gauge halfway up the roof
Running battens without snapping a chalk line
Not checking at least 3 rafters before fixing

These lead to uneven courses, tile rattling, and ridge height problems.

Pro Roofer Tips

Always lay 3–4 tiles dry to double-check the gauge before committing.
If you’re between gauges, choose the tighter (smaller) one — it improves weatherproofing.
Keep battens perfectly straight — one wonky batten makes the whole roof look bad.

FAQ

How do I know if my gauge is correct?

Lay a dry run of tiles — if they sit naturally on the nibs and line up with each other, your gauge is right.

Does gauge change for hips/valleys?

The gauge stays the same, but batten lengths and cuts change.

Can batten gauge be different left vs right?

No — your roof will not tile correctly. Gauge must be uniform across the entire elevation.

Counter Battened with Interlocking Tiles gauge.

Measuring batten gauge correctly is essential for straight tile courses and a clean roof finish. Taking the time to measure properly before fixing battens will prevent alignment issues, incorrect cuts, and problems at the ridge.